GLOBAL FASHION COLLECTIVE PROMOTES EMERGING DESIGNERS AT NYFW

WHAT IS GLOBAL FASHION COLLECTIVE ?

I’m excited to introduce many of you to Global Fashion Collective. Certainly, many of you who are familiar with Vancouver Fashion Week may have heard of Global Fashion Collective. However talking to my Vancouver fashion industry friends and other fashion lovers, many know little or nothing about it. Therefore, let me fill you in on this great expansion of Vancouver Fashion Week.

Darling’s living here in Vancouver a designers exposure to larger fashion markets is limited.  In fact, apart from Vancouver Fashion Week it is hard to get any exposure to other than local markets. Therefore, GLOBAL FASHION COLLECTIVE (GFC), an expansion of Vancouver Fashion Week, was formed.

Global Fashion Collective is a platform specializing in supporting creative designers by establishing their presence around the world. Launched in October 2017, the collective is dynamic and liberating in that it produces exclusive runway showcases in diverse fashion capitals across the globe. Chiefly, the is aim to accelerate the designer’s global development.  Therefore, increasing their international media visibility, and opening up new markets.

GLOBAL FASHION COLLECTIVE – S/S 2020

With a mission to put on showcases to promote emerging designers, GFC, is busy producing runway shows in major fashion markets. These fashion capitals around the world are London, Paris, New York, and Tokyo. While still others are in the works for the future….

However, for this post I will concentrate on New York Fashion Week , which is winding up this week.

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK- Global Fashion Collective

Global Fashion Collective (GFC) presented at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) for the S/S 2020 season on Friday 6th, Monday 9th and Tuesday the 10th September 2019.

 GLOBAL FASHION COLLECTIVE – FIRST DAY

The presentation on Friday September 6th was the first runway day and included designers MRHUA MRSHUA , GLAZE KOHL, XUNRUO , and JESSICA CHANG STUDIO.

MRHUA MRSHUA 

Sometimes a fashion show is also a spectacle the type of thing that us fashionistas live for. Although, I regret I was not present in person, when I saw the recording of this show I was in awe. Without any reference to gender this show truly was non binary.

Models regardless of gender took to the runway with a force that was equal to a tsunami. Ethnic diversity, tribal references, and pop culture inspired this colorful collection. The wealth of fabrics was a cross between a treasure trove of the Arabian Nights and a trip to the circus . Bold patterns, metallic embroidery, and brilliant colored silks were perfectly used by NiuNiu Chou to bring life to his vision.  Chou’s mission is ” to reinvent garments by reversing the laws and genders of fashion. ”

It is rare to be treated to such an imaginative and refreshing catwalk. Therefore I have no hesitation in saying we will see much more from this inspired artist.

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GLAZE KOHL

Last spring at Vancouver Fashion Week I had the pleasure of meeting designer Michiko Ueda of Glaze Kohl. We had a limited conversation as Michiko speaks little english and unfortunately we had no translator . However no translator was needed to understand her chic and sophisticated designs.

Glaze Kohl is a brand that really pays homage to the past. I loved their presentation at VFW and the collection in New York is consistent with the vintage feel of this label. Spring came alive with the pastel hues incorporated with monochrome classics. The silhouettes seemed like they walked off the page of a vintage Vogue. While, time never stands still it is often fun to and wear the styles of the past. However, the talent behind Glaze Kohl is in making those treasured visions of  yesterday have relevance in today’s world.

  GLAZE KOHL

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XUNRUO

XUNRUO is an independent design brand founded by twins Xun (Chen Dan) and Ruo (Chen Ying) in 2011 in HangZhou, China. Curiosity about the world was the driving force for the designers to create XUNRUO.  NYFW , is a huge opportunity for any designers and Xunruo ceased the moment.
While, I know that young labels often can look unfocused in their collections, what stood out to me is that Xunruo showed a very concise collection.  With influences from their native China, the mandarin collars and embroidery paired with mini skirts and PVC gave both vitality and exciting juxtaposition.
What I loved most about this collection was the  joy and playfulness. In fact, those that are familiar with me know how I like fun in fashion. Certainly, Xunruo provides fun in their use of  a graphic black and white graffiti print. In addition, the use of animal cutouts adds a convivial element to the fashion and runway presentation. Fashion can be celebratory, and these talented twins create a celebration on the catwalk.

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JESSICA CHANG STUDIO

I was first introduced to Jessica Chang Studio at Vancouver Fashion Week at the F/W 2019 show last March. Since that time I have followed the rise of this exciting young label. Jessica Chang is a Taiwanese, comfort-conscious women’s occasion wear designer. Ms. Chang  never fails in being genuine and authentic with everything she creates. Imbued with a gift for movement in clothing, this label pays homage to nature. Jessica Chang Studio, uses fabric, silhouette and color to tell the personal stories of the designer. Here this Spring 2020 focuses on the immeasurable strength of a woman, inspired by the relationship the designer has with her mother.

Armed with her skills from studying at Parsons, Jessica Chang took us on an mystical journey, using a combination of organza, silk and satin. Furthermore the color palette was delicate and calming using dusty blue, chic creams and luxurious grays.  Flowing fabrics created silhouettes that are soft and undefined. This Taiwanese designer is well on her way to influence the future of women’s wear.

JESSICA CHANG STUDIO

 

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 GLOBAL FASHION COLLECTIVE – SECOND DAY

Global Fashion Collective II SS2020 NYFW Monday September 9th, HAMON, HAUS ZUK, MARIA PIA CORNEJO , AC·HOUSE.

HAMON

Hamon is another brand that I first encountered at Vancouver Fashion Week. This Japanese label designed by Kumiko Iwano is building on her love of hand dyeing fabrics. In fact the brand originated out of Kumiko’s desire to create a new lifestyle where she created everything she used . Since that time Hamon has received accolades for their adaptable sophisticated clothing, ideal for the modern woman.

‘Square’ featured a series of natural, hand-dyed linen and cotton womenswear. In fact, the color palette tells the story of how dyeing and manipulating color gives a unique vision. Turquoise, yellow, pink and more with dyeing technique’s creating ombre and fading. Clean silhouettes that all seem to come from that basic square give multiple options on how to wear these garments. In brief this fresh and lively collection, that has a strong connection to natural fabrics is perfect for S/S 2020

HAMON

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HAUS ZUK

Certainly, I find it hard to hide my excitement that Peter Zuk has taken New York by storm. This young designer stole the show at Vancouver Fashion Week last March and we anticipate him doing the same in a couple of weeks. Inspired by a background in cosplay and his LGBTQ activism his runway shows shake the room. Sometimes fashion is here to challenge and free us, and gender identity and non-binary gender roles are today’s liberation movement.

Just when you thought it was safe to go in the woods Haus Zuk puts sexualized bears in your face. LGBTQ images appear everywhere, however, they usually have been neutered . Haus Zuk enjoys exploring all these once taboo subjects in a sexualized fun and celebratory way. The use of brilliant colors, fun fur and masks gives this exciting collection a playful theme. Congratulations to Vancouver’s Peter Zuk for taking on the big apple. What could be next ?

HAUS ZUK

Global Fashion Collective II - Runway - September 2019 - New York Fashion Week: The Shows

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MARIA PIA CORNEJO

We now move to South America for the label Maria Pia Cornejo.  Global Fashion Collective is just that global. Therefore having shown successfully at Vancouver Fashion Week it was time for another venue. New York is the capital for fashion in the Americas and Marie Pia Cornejo has an upscale label that suits this metropolis.

Not unlike her collection shown in Vancouver her current collection named ALMA, meaning soul in Spanish, has a futuristic feel. Not to mention, it also has an exciting 1980’s retro vibe. This talented Chilean designer uses a combination of shape and color blocks to achieve architectural forms. Geometric shapes in bold blue and red are edged with metallic gold. Moreover, the collection has clean lines and innovative silhouettes.

MARIA PIA CORNEJO

 

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AC HOUSE

Luxury and sophistication meets Rock and Roll in the latest collection from designer Lily Liu. AC House was black, broken up with embroidery , lace, feather and creme. This collection named ‘Rock Dreamer’ is an every-woman collection ,meaning there really is something for every woman. First is that for classic evening wear black works and these creations have enough details to give that black interest.

Moreover this collection for the sophisticated young woman makes reference to the mythical chinese bird, ‘Luan Phoenix’. Within the ranks of emerging designers Lily Liu shows great promise. Her latest collection is confident, timeless and sophisticated.

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 GLOBAL FASHION COLLECTIVE – THIRD DAY

BAILUYU by Fu Wenjie presented on Tuesday September 10th, by Global Fashion Collective SS 2020.

BAILUYU

Bailu means ‘white deer’- a symbol of beauty, pure and minimalist, and Yu means ‘language’- an expression of meaning. Bailuyu the brand stands for the definition of simple and beautiful art, presenting a ‘less is more’ minimalist design concept. It breaks the traditional complex beauty, naturally revealing a casual style exuding the unique charm of minimalism. Chinese designer Fu Wenjie’s designs reflect smooth, soft and self-cultivating lines in a simple and elegant style with rich colors. Bailuyu won the “2018 China Top Ten Fashion Brand” award in November, 2018. They have presented the following collections: ‘Fashion Deer – Bailuyu’ at London Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2019 ‘Hyde Fantasy’ at China Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2019 ‘Huan’ at China Fashion Week Autumn / Winter 2019.

Copied from Global Fashion Collective web site.

Minimalism and details are in juxtaposition in this fresh collection ideal for S/S 2020. As a concept , I almost always say I don’t like minimalism , however in reality I am almost always attracted to it. Certainly, I don’t believe I am alone in this contradiction. Fu Wenjie along with her son Justin Du , have produced a collection that is minimal in it’s first look, however, it is full of details, fabric manipulation, ruffles and intricate seaming. This large collection has references  to the ancient Chinese Confucian classic ‘Book of Rites – The Doctrine of the Mean’.

Audio clips of phrases including “nature”, “beauty” and “the world is family” were mirrored on the garments in embroidery emulating a sound frequency. This was met with a beautifully simple white colour palette with pops of moss green, spotted on sweatshirts, chiffon skirts, and elegantly accented on the eyelids of the models.

BAILUYU

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GLOBAL FASHION COLLECTIVE

Darling’s three weeks today is the opening of Vancouver Fashion Week. Certainly as I prepare for this busy week of fashion, I think about the value to the participants . In fact what is really valuable about VFW is the  exposure, networking ,experience and interfacing that happens. My real work starts when fashion week ends and I start to promote and publicize the weeks shows. In 2017 the addition of Global Fashion Collective further takes this exposure to a new level.

“Global Fashion Collective is a platform supporting creative designers from around the world. The collective produces runway showcases in different fashion capitals with the aim to accelerate the designer’s global development, increase their international media visibility, and open up new markets”

“We are proud to be bringing in more and more creative designers from across the globe each year. We hand-pick inspiring designers every season to emphasize our commitment to diversity and innovative design.” – Jamal Abdourahman Founder & Producer of Global Fashion Collective.

Thanks to everyone at Vancouver Fashion Week , Global Fashion Collective and Jamal Abdourahman for their cooperation and support in the writing of this post.

WHAT’S HOT…

WHAT’S HOT is something that I love. I’m not a huge trend follower and really promote personal style. However it does have to be noted we don’t live in a vacuum, and trends are fun. Since we need to keep our eyes open , I am  always on the look out for hot trends. I read a huge amount of fashion blogs and magazines. Since this is a NYFW  edition , of  WHAT’S HOT I’m looking at what was hot in Street Style during New York Fashion Week. The hottest trend was…

 PINKpinkpinkPINKpinkPINK

SHOP PINK

GLOBAL FASHION COLLECTIVE

Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang Alpaca and wool coat
GLOBAL FASHION COLLECTIVE

Kay Unger

 Folded Bodice Mikado Satin Cocktail Dress
GLOBAL FASHION COLLECTIVE

Ganni

– Belted Plissé-satin Mini Dress – Pink
GLOBAL FASHION COLLECTIVE

Bagatelle

 Short Fashion Puffer
GLOBAL FASHION COLLECTIVE

Isabel Marant

Grayson Pant in Light Pink
GLOBAL FASHION COLLECTIVE

L’Autre Chose

Oversized faux-fur coat

CIAO FOR NOW J.ANDREW

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