THE NEW LOOK
As a self-proclaimed fashion history aficionado, I was absolutely thrilled tо dive into the series “The New Look.” I indulged іn multiple episodes at a time, immersing myself іn the captivating world іt portrayed. Not only did the show transport me tо occupied Paris during WWII, but іt also whisked me away tо the glamorous realm оf haute couture, where sophistication and creativity collide.
This Apple TV+ series unfolds against the backdrop оf post-World War II, shedding light оn the intense rivalry between fashion powerhouses Christian Dior and Coco Chanel. As the narrative transitions from the battlefield tо the catwalk, we witness a monumental shift іn style, attitude, and overall vibe. It’s a fashionista’s dream come true, filled with drama, elegance, and a touch оf ” je ne sais quoi”.
THE NEW LOOK
The Birth of a Revolution
As a student of fashion history, I encourage all upcoming designers to study fashion’s past. Whether you are a designer yourself or work in any area of the fashion industry knowing the origins of fashion is essential. Important collections are milestones in fashion.
In 1947, Christian Dior unveiled his debut haute couture collection in Paris, and the fashion landscape would never be the same. Dubbed the “New Look,” this collection was a symphony of rounded shoulders, cinched waists, and voluminous A-line skirts. After years of wartime austerity, Dior’s designs celebrated ultra-femininity and opulence. The world hungered for beauty, and Dior delivered—a new outlook that transcended mere clothing.
THE NEW LOOK
The Iconic Bar Suit
At the heart of the fabulous “New Look” lies the iconic Bar Suit. Its silhouette, cinched at the waist and with a full skirt cascading to mid-calf, became the ultimate symbol of femininity. When Harper’s Bazaar editor-in-chief Carmel Snow first laid eyes on Dior’s collection, she couldn’t help but declare it “quite a revolution.” The Bar Suit, complete with its shawl collar and meticulously hand-stitched self-covered buttons, perfectly captured the spirit of the era. It was a refreshing departure from the drab wartime attire, a breath of fresh air that whispered of hope and renewal.
THE NEW LOOK
Dior vs. Chanel: Clash of Philosophies
Christian Dior and Coco Chanel stood at opposite poles of the fashion universe. Dior’s vision was grand, romantic, and unapologetically feminine. His designs celebrated curves, emphasizing the female form. Chanel, on the other hand, championed practicality and elegance. Her timeless suits and little black dresses were a testament to simplicity and sophistication. Their clash wasn’t just about fabrics and stitches; it was a battle of ideologies. Dior’s “New Look” challenged convention, while Chanel held her ground, refusing to be overshadowed by the rising star.
The Influence of the New Look
Dior’s revolution reverberated far beyond the Parisian ateliers. The “New Look” inspired a generation of designers, shaping the future of fashion. Here’s how:
- Hourglass Silhouette: The cinched waist and full skirts became a hallmark of the 1950s. Women embraced curves, bidding farewell to boxy shapes.
- Luxury and Opulence: Dior’s opulent fabrics and meticulous craftsmanship set a new standard. The world craved beauty, and Dior delivered it in yards of silk and taffeta.
- Balenciaga and Saint-Laurent: The “New Look” era birthed other luminaries. Cristóbal Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent emerged, each leaving an indelible mark on fashion history.
- Fashion as Empowerment: Dior’s designs weren’t mere garments; they were armor. Women stepped into his creations, feeling empowered and ready to conquer the world.
THE NEW LOOK
The Legacy Lives On
As we binge-watch “The New Look,” we’re reminded that fashion isn’t just about fabric and stitches. It’s about dreams, defiance, and daring to reimagine the possible. Christian Dior’s legacy endures—a testament to the transformative power of a single collection. So, next time you slip into a cinched-waist dress or twirl in a voluminous skirt, remember the revolution that began in 1947. It’s more than fashion; it’s a whisper of hope, a brushstroke of beauty, and a promise of a new dawn1.
In the hallowed halls of couture, where threads weave tales of passion and rebellion, the “New Look” remains etched in silk and memory. As Dior once said, “After women, flowers are the most divine creations.” Perhaps he forgot to add that his “New Look” was a bouquet of both—a fragrant rebellion that forever altered the course of fashion history.
So, my dear fashion aficionados, embrace your curves, cinch that waist, and twirl like a Dior model. For in every stitch, in every seam, lies the promise of a new beginning.
what’s hot
Trend alert for Spring/Summer 2024 is sheer. It seems like the fashion industry is obsessed with sheer fabrics right now, especially as we head into a season where we can finally ditch those heavy winter clothes for something lighter. Instead of just showing off everything in the spring, designers are giving us more choices to play with. Add some sheer to your summer looks with some of my selections.
CIAO FOR NOW J. ANDREW